Thursday, October 15, 2009
In Which My Dad and I Both...(like i'm going to tell you if we make it or not. you have to read it to find out)
After catching about 3 winks (much less than the average 40) the night before my dad and I got up around 11:30. I put in my contacts. Emmanuel arrived with tea, we got on our gear. The Swedes thankfully left. It is unfortunate that layering was popular a few years ago since my dad both resembled onions. I had on a complete set of thermal underwear, pants, another pair of windbreaker snow pants, two pairs of socks, boots, gators, a fleece, a windbreaker, my coat, a hat, liners, and heavy gloves. We put our headlamps on and after adjusting our poles we were ready to go. Calvin and Stephen met us at midnight and we began.
That day almost a full capacity of climbers were trying to reach the summit. Most started a half hour ahead of us. We say their lights already beginning to creep up the mountain. We began pole pole. We moved in steady rhythm and almost silently. We stopped to remove layers, drink, and add layers. We passed some slower climbers. We met a few coming down. My world shrank to my father’s feet in front of mine. To the trail of slag and the rhythm of my feet and poles. We stopped at 4:00, to drink and rest. It was at that point that my father said he knew he could make it. We kept climbing. Steadily up hill; I kept track of steps, left, left, left right left. Then is would switch and count my poles, left, left, left right left. As we neared the edge of the crater we slowed even more. Pole pole took on a whole new meaning. Step. Breath. Another step. Gilman’s point our goal looked deceptively close in the moonlight. We clamored over boulders now. The sun began to rise. Gut check. There was no trail now. Calvin just led us wherever he could. Unrelentlessly upward. Finally we emerged on the edge of the crater around 6:30. Gilman’s Point 18,638 ft. A cluster of boulders, the littered garbage of thousand of other climbers, a wooden sign. The sun bathed the mountain in golden light. We stood now in a sea of clouds.
We barely paused at Gilman’s point. My father and I wanted to continue to the Uhuru Peak. It took us another hour and a half to negotiate the winding steadily inclined trail that edged along the rim of the crater to the highest point in Africa. Although only about a mile this portion of the climb took forever due to our exhausted condition and high altitude. The trail was crowded with climbers as several summit routes converged on the summit. At 8:00 we reached Uhuru Peak, which at 19331 is the tallest point in Africa. We spent a few precious, breathless minutes at the top before descending. We paused at Gilman’s point where Calvin served us tea, biscuits, and a much appreciated snickers bar. My dad was really feeling the affects of altitude sickness by then. We literally ran/skied down the loose slag at a breakneck pace. We arrived at Kibo hut in under an hour. What had taken us 6 ½ hours that night had just taken us 50 minutes. Altitude sickness finally caught up with my dad shortly before we entered camp. He spent a few minutes dry heaving before we both managed to crawl into bed for a well deserved hour nap.
At 11:00 we awoke and hiked down to Horombo huts were we would spend the night. At this point my dad was feeling worse. He managed to eat a little on the way down and shortly after I left for dinner he threw it all up. I though he might have something besides altitude sickness because he seemed to not be getting better despite the fact that we had descended nearly 7,000 feet. Right before we went to bed that night to sleep for a continues 11 hours Calvin came and upon my father’s request prayed for him. It was really cool to see this black man laid his hands on my father and passionately pray aloud in Kiswahili for a man he had only known a few days. Then we slept.
The Continued Confusion of the Europeans and New Levels of Modesty
We were again woken at 6:00 by Emmanuel and his tray and thermos. After washing and breakfast we started hiking at 7:30. We climbed steadily all morning rising out of the heath and moorland and into the alpine desert of rock and sparse, hardy flowers. The mountain now towers above us. The steep trails leading to the crater rim clearly visible in the morning light. The clouds are all still far below us. Blotting out the rest of Africa.
We passed through the saddle between Kilimanjaro’s smaller, jagged peak, Mt. Mawenzi and Kibo. Here past climbers have assembled rocks into words and messages. We stopped for lunch in sight of Kibo huts at the base of the steep sides of the crater which rose another 3,800 feet above them. The pick nick tables at this point were thinner than the seats of the first day, barely 8 inches across. The seats were less than half a foot. I guess along with the decrease in air pressure the size of tables also shrinks. Lunch was unremarkable except that a bar of Cadburys chocolate was provided for dessert which was greatly appreciated.
The last mile to Kibo huts we gained nearly 1000 feet and Calvin and Stephen took it pole pole. Kibo huts sit at the foot of the steep sides of the crater. These huts are much different then the previous huts. There are three main buildings. The guide huts, the porter huts, and the largest, climbers hut. These building are made of stone and look like they could withstand a nuclear holocaust. The climbers hut consists of 5 large rooms with 6 bunk beds in each and another room with tables. Our room was nearly full with my dad and I, two Australian guys, and 7 Swedes; two of whom were women my mothers age.
A quick word on Europeans. I have mentioned the apparent disregard as for European distinction between a separate male and female bathroom. They seem to also have a different sense of modesty. Upon my Arrival at Horombo huts I happened to see a lady older than my mother calmly walking back to her cabin without any pants on. The 2 Swedish ladies in our cabin seemed agree with this level of modesty. Did I mention they were my mother’s age? Again not to beat the point to death but one of the larger Swedish gentlemen seemed to thing it was more comfortable to spend the morning after our assent in his Speedo like underwear. I guess they were probably cheap if he paid for the amount of material they were made out of.
My dad and I went to bed after eating at 5:00. The Swedes meanwhile seemed to think this was a good time to sort all their gear. I suppose the altitude was getting to me since I was unable to fall asleep despite having hiked all day. I think I managed to catch a few hours sometime between the Swedes finally going to bed and their guide waking them up at 11:00.
More Monkeys and Confusion on the European Continent
Day 2: 9,000 ft -12,336 ft
We were awoken at 6:00 by Emmanuel bearing a hot thermos and a tray of sugar, teabags, instant coffee, etc… We made our drinks and changed into our cloths for the day; the same as yesterday except now we put on gators which our guides suggest to keep out the dust. Emmanuel returned at 6:30 with hot water to wash and then at 7:00 we ate a breakfast of bread, hard boiled eggs, “sausages” (all African breakfast sausages are in fact hotdogs of dubious origins) a rather yummy cornmeal porridge, fruit, and more hot water for drinks.
We got on the trail at 7:30, the first ones out of the camp, and almost immediately passed out of the jungles and into the heath and moorland. Smaller seemingly shriveled trees and large bushes which gave of an air of survivability and windswept toughness that the precious vegetation had lacked the day before. We hiked for another five hours that day gaining more than 3,000 feet in elevation. We climbed above the first layer of clouds that day and saw the mountain’s peak dominating the skyline as it would for the rest of the trip. We stopped and ate another amazing lunch at the “half way point” which stands about ¾ of the way between Mandara and Horombo. We had chips and a very mayonnaisey salad as well as everything of yesterday’s lunch. Stephen battled the wind for about a half hour before finally conceding and putting away our pink bouquet.
We reached the Horombo huts which sits on a windblown hill and is essentially the same as the Mandara huts except that the bathrooms are in the middle of the camp. Although to me these seem to be clearly labeled between men and women apparently the largely European population of the camp did not understand. I repeatedly found women in the men’s side of the bathroom. These women, far from seemingly feeling out of place among their y chromosomed counterparts’, looked unfazed.
It was much colder at the Horombo huts and as the clouds rolled in around 5:00 enveloped the camp in a cold mist my dad and I had to pull our more layers. Our cabin mates were the same as the prior night. Tory, a tall rather angular Swede, who hiked at a pace that scoffed at the pole pole (slowly in Kiswahili) advice of the guides in order to better acclimate and not to wear out the bodies of the climbers. He is a pilot who is now flying for Ethiopian airways and has a house in Red Lodge. Tory is a talkative and interesting guy. Andrew, a thickly built Brit is quite, volunteering no more information about himself than to answer my dad’s questions.
That night I rose myself from sleep and find a monkey. The moon was so bright I didn’t even take my headlamp. On my way back to the cabin I wandered over to the edge of the camp and stopped to see Moshi, clearly visible some 1000 feet below us. I could not believe the amount of lights in Moshi.
Ok, Hopefully This Works Better Than My Last Post Which Was Supposed To Show a Cool Map
Day 1: 6,102 ft -9,000 ft
My father and I woke at the Lutheran guest house and changed into our cloths for the day. Shorts and a t-shirt. We ate a hearty breakfast and prepared for departure. Stephan our head guide appeared at 7:30 in an incredibly deteriorated car and we loaded our two duffel bags and our backpacks. We then traveled to Unity’s house which was a trip we hoped to avoid by giving him our other luggage the night before. However my dad had discovered that morning that he had failed to pack any underwear so a quick stop was called for. After that Stephan needed to run a last minute errand and then we were on our way.
We arrived at the Marangu gate shortly after 9:00 where we met our other guide, Calvin and our five porters. Colman, Emmanuel, Joshua, Jacob, and the fifth one. Colman would double as our cook and Emmanuel as our waiter. We finally started after much bureaucracy at around 10:30. We hiked threw jungle of tall twisting trees, Tarzan like vines, and underbrush too thick to see threw. Stephen informed us shortly after leaving the gate that he had to “go find a monkey”. Apparently that is code for going to the bathroom. That day we found many monkeys.
We stopped for lunch were our trail meets an old road that the porters use and sat down to a delicious meal. We had bread, cucumber soup, chicken, muffins, a vast assortment of fruit and a thermos of hot water for making drinks. Our wooden pick nick table was decorated with a blue table cloth pulled from Calvin’s pack, an army of condiments, blue band, peanut butter, jam, hot sauce, tomato paste, honey, condensed milk, coffee, tea, drinking chocolate, and hot chocolate. Also pulled from the confines of Calvin’s pack was a small wooden vase and a dozen or so pink plastic roses.
We hiked for about 5 hours that day and arrived at our first camp, Mandara. We arrived around 3:30 and signed in and were shown our cabin. The cabins consisted of an A-frame structure about 8 feet at the base with the peak about 10 feet up. There were two beds on either side of the cabin on the floor as you entered perpendicular to the door and another at the back parallel. The fourth bunk was directly above the back bunk about three feet. Our cabin mates for that night and for most of the trip were Andrew and Tory, and Brit and Swede respectively.
That night our dinner was served on the porch of the large A-frame dinning hall with a large sleeping room on the second level. Our table was laid with the ever present pink flowers and we dug into another hearty meal. Our guides apologized profusely for not being able to get us a place inside but we assured them that we preferred being out in the fresh air and indeed for the remainder of the trip, except at Kibo where it was impossible, we would eat on the front porches of the Dining halls.
Warning! Scientific Content! Kinda
This is a basic outline of our route of the
Drive to Marangu Gate. Walk through the rain forest to Mandara hut (9,000 ft).
Leave the forest and cross open moor land to Horombo hut (12,336 ft).
Walk through moorland then alpine desert to "The Saddle" between the peaks of Mawenzi and Kibo and on to Kibo hut (15,518 ft).
Very early start for the summit on steep scree up to Gillman's Point (18,638 ft) which is on the crater rim. Continue around the rim to
Descend to Marangu gate.
Monday, October 5, 2009
Team Friesen United For 2009 Kili Climb and Steve is Here Too
Friday morning I taught at the school as usual. In the after noon I consolidated my Christmas gifts for my family. Really excited to give them. Packed my backpack for overnight. I went to prayers and then shortly after we started Unity, Grace, Gloria, and I left to go to the Lutheran guesthouse were my dad I will be staying. Dropped off my bag. Met Steve, husband to my Dad’s assistant (she’s a secretary but I think that term is now sexist and ourdated). Steve is spending a year in country teaching at a school in Babatu, which is in the middle of the country.
We left shortly after 6:30 to go pick up my dad at the Kilimanjaro National Airport. The ride there took about an hour during which I got to talk to steve who is a really cool guy with a lot of experience and wisdom. My dad’s plan was scheduled to arrive at 7:45. so it arrived as expected shortly after 8:00. we waited for some 40 minutes for my dad to finally appear. I gave him a big hug.
We drove back to the guest house and ate dinner there with steve. Then my dad and I crashed in our room were we partially unpacked and he revealed a container of my mother’s snickerdoodle cookies which had been baked only a day earlier. Tastes like home. I need to thank everyone who contributed movies, cards, and candies for me. everything is greatly appreciated and I thank you for the time and money you spent. I look forward to sitting down to a good movie and breaking out some American candy.
The next day I woke early and did my devotions and caught up on my journal. My father was finally roused by steve knocking on the door inviting us to breakfast. My father showered and dressed and we went and ate a sparse but good breakfast. That morning the three of us walked around town running some errands of steve’s, exchanging money for my dad, and emailing my mother. We ate lunch at a coffee shop on steve’s recommendation where I had a very good cold sandwitch and my father braved a pizza which was actually pretty good. Then my dad and I returned to our room to sort our climbing gear. After that we walked to Unity’s house to get some cloths I needed and dad was able to meet some of the people hanging around.
It is strange to walk Moshi with someone else and not by myself. The things I am used to stand out to my father such as the poverty and dirt and I am able to talk and express my thoughts to someone for the first time about my life here. I showed my dad Unity’s house, my room and the church/school.
That night for dinner we went to Deli Chez and had a delicious meal. I had a BBQ chicken pizza which’s crust was identical to Naan. My dad got a pepper steak with mash potatoes. Having my father here is an incredible blessing. Having a companion to share all the adventures of a day. Not eating alone in a resturaunt. Hearing stories about our family. Talking about my future and what I want to do with my life. Trying food together. Exploring Moshi. I realize how lonely I have been and I thank God he has kept me content.
My dad brought a book called “Tourist Route” my @$$. The book is only about 60 pages and it tells the story of a man who on a whim decided to climb kili with a few friends. His humorous adventure have excited and prepared me for the climb ahead. He explains how actually difficult climbing kili is because of the altitude and has raised my awareness and determination to reach the summit.
Shakespeare Meets Whitedent and I Learn What Those Nets Over Your Beds Are For
Monday I found a copy of King Lear by Shakespeare when I was looking through the street vendor’s collection of used books. Bought it and finished it Tuesday. I really enjoyed the play. The copy I bought is great because it has a bunch of back round information and notes to go along with the play which are very helpful. Wednesday then I went online and downloaded Hamlet, Macbeth, and Much Ado About Nothing. Also returned to the book vendor and found a copy of Othello. Wednesday night then I read Hamlet. I love Hamlet, it is a great play. I wish though that I could find books of all these because it’s not as much fun to read them of the computer.
School has been good this week. Tuesday through Thursday I have been in charge of Gladness’ class because she has been going to a conference of sorts for teachers. Tuesday I was teaching the kids some English and a little boy through a spit sodden wad of paper at another kid in the front row. Unfortunately he missed and hit me. so I gave him a couple licks and Ella another teacher came in and started applauding. All the teachers carry sticks here to “mind the children”. Its completely acceptable practice. I can imagine myself trying to run for public office in the future and my opponent bringing up the fact that I beat children in Africa. Wednesday Omar, one of the kids, was walking around with the deflated soccer ball on his head while a crowd of other kids followed in his wake chanting and singing. After doing a couple laps of the field they came over to where I was sitting and Omar put the ball/crown on my head and they stood in a circle around me and chanted. Later they ditched the ball and were all singing and keeping rhythm by hitting broken water bottles, pill bottles, and bottle caps with sticks and singing.
Tuesday I went to the Shree Hindu Mandal Ujamaa Charitable Dispensary to get a malaria smear and some cream for my ringworm. Ringworm in a fungal infection of the skin and not parasitic worms as some may believe. The hospital itself was surprisingly clean and nice. As the name suggests it was run mainly by Indians. I got the smear and after waiting a half hour for the results I was ushered into the nurse/doctor’s office. I sat down in the chair in front of the desk and the women behind the desk say very slowly and softly, “be thankful…very thankful…there is no malaria.” She acted as though she were telling me I didn’t have cancer. she then commenced to explain very carefully about wearing bug repellant, about these net things that I guess your supposed to sleep under (oh, is that what they’re for. I though they were dream catchers to keep out evil spirits and malignant ancestors), and questioned whether I was on any preventative malaria medication. She treated me as though she thought that I was deathly afraid of contracting malaria and entirely ignorant as to how to prevent it. I guess she gets this impression from white people in general. After being released from her office I took a look at my receipt and say that I had been charged 1000 Tsh for “consulting fees”. Rip-off.
Have been running very little this week. Partly because I want to rest for kili this coming week. However I have also hurt a muscle in my leg. Its right on the inside of my shin bone on my left leg. It swells up and aches during and for a few minutes after running. After doing some research I have concluded it is the soleus m. there seems to be no way to stretch it so letting it rest is the only option.
Finally ran out of toothpaste this week so I have been using my new Whitedent. Three in one striped toothpaste; advanced long lasting protection formula with free toothbrush inside. Blue toothpaste keeps your breath Ultra Fresh, white toothpaste gives you strong white teeth, and red toothpaste with LLP-3 formulas provides long lasting protection. the box says this toothbrush is “New Improved” and the other side of the box hails it as “Revolutionary, toothpaste with LLP3 formula.” Directions for use: “Use twice daily for strong teeth, fresh breath, and healthy gums. Use with Whitedent toothbrush for effective cleaning, brush for at least one minute. Do not swallow-spit and rinse after use. Children under six years should brush under adult supervision and use only a pea sized amount. Visit your dentist regularly.” I think the visit your dentist regularly is a catch all. “what? Out toothbrush caused your teeth to turn black and then fall out of your mouth? You should have visited your dentist regularly, we put it on the box.”